Poor readers, I load you down with an enormous spring break blog after such a drought, and here comes another on the same day. Sometimes life's like that, I guess.
Hmmm...my flight leaves tomorrow afternoon at 2:55 for Athens. I think I'll have to leave Zamalek by noon. I only have about 12 hours left, which is just the strangest thought in the world. I keep trying to check off what needs to be done and not, and it's just impossible--the list only seems to grow as I check it. I've decided that instead of listing need-to-dos, it would be more productive and more mind-settling to list have-dones here in the blog--different sorts of categories of things that have been great and not-so-great this semester. I know I don't normally make lists here, but it's the only way to organize the scattered fragments floating around currently...and the only way right now to really appreciate everything that this semester has given me.
Five favorite days in Cairo (none of the following lists are in any particular order):
--Five friends and I decided to take one Friday afternoon earlier this year to visit a park, Al-Azhar, near Islamic Cairo. We packed a picnic lunch of deli meat sandwiches, chips, yogurt and "Boreo" cookies (somewhat like "Oreos"--I know you're shocked). After some leisurely grass enjoying (since there's little of that in Cairo), we went further afield in our explorations, leaving the park and visiting the areas around Islamic Cairo. One of the boundaries of this neighborhood is marked by a still-standing medieval gate called "Bab Zuweila," which has two tall minaret-like towers flanking its sides. Though it was time for the gate museum to close, the guards allowed us to get in a last-minute climb up one of the towers. After an uneven interior stair case that alternated between dim light and pitch black, we reached one of the platforms of the tower and found another staircase, more like an angled and curved ladder, awaiting us--challenging us to make it to the top. We wound around the wobbly "stairs" until the very top tiny platform, which afforded us one of the best views of Cairo ever--seen just at sunset...amazing.
--I took a solo trip on a Friday afternoon in Zamalek, looking for nothing in particular, just walking where the streets led me. I ended up outside Zamalek's Aquarium Grotto Garden, a curious entertainment relic of who-knows-what-era. Intrigued, I decided to step inside for the steep price of 2 pounds (around 40 cents). The sidewalk led up to a series of man-made caves and grottoes in which scores and scores of Egyptian couples huddled up against the walls, holding hands and avoiding the scolding daylight. Within these grottoes where glass cases which presumably would hold the aquariums and fish of the Fish Garden. I walked up to the first case and was surprised and more than slightly amused to find, not living fish, but instead bloated and slowly decaying fish inside long, yellow tubes of formaldehyde. Literally, there were dozens of eerily illuminated cases filled with yellow tubes of dead fish--some fish garden. After the garden closed at 4:30, I decided to continue on, and my travels took me over the bridge to the Egyptian Museum in Tahrir Square (across from AUC). I had visited only once before, and given the size of the place, hadn't even seen the upstairs. I wandered up and waited slowly, as I had been advised, for the tour groups to disperse. As I sat waiting with a book, I realized that the decibel level in the museum was indeed decreasing, and so I ventured forth to the formerly tightly packed halls and found that even the Tut Exhibit was breathable. By the time I left at 7ish, I had mostly the run of the place and got to spend at least 3 minutes having a stare down with the museum's most famous exhibit, the funerary mask of King Tut.
--Our first day back in Cairo from Spring Break, we arrived to the airport and went to find a cab. It can be tricky to haggle the right price for a cab there, where all of the cabbies are sure that the foreigners are naive and loaded. We finally found a guy willing to take us for a reasonable price, and, as we loaded our bags into the back, realized that an Egyptian guard was coming to take the customary Egyptian "basksheesh" from our driver, or a tip for allowing him to wait in the parking lot (normally reserved only for those using the airport, not cab drivers). "Bisura, Bisura!" ("Quickly, Quickly!") he cried, and we sped off before the cabbie was forced to pay the guard. As we dodged along the five lanes of traffic on the three-lane highway, he began to honk his horn incessantly. "Egyptian music, Ha Ha Ha!" he shouted over the wind tunneling through the windows, cracking himself up with one of many Egyptian-deprecating jokes. After awhile, our speeding turned to crawling turned to sitting turned to actually parking the car and figuring out what the heck had happened ahead of us to clog the traffic to a standstill (some were attempting to climb on top of their cars to check it out). Eventually, we were moving again, and over the bridge into Zamalek he drove us. After the calm and European air of Istanbul, it was refreshing and terrifying all together to return to Cairo: "Welcome to Egypt, indeed."
--The quintessential Cairo experience: the pyramids. This day was not only a trip to a wonder of the ancient world, but a trip into the wonders of AUC bureaucracy and Egyptian tourism (western-style). As I said in an earlier blog, I went with AUC because they held some of my money hostage for orientation trips, and I needed to get it back somehow. I climbed onto the bus in the morning and took a seat next to my friend Tim. The checklist of attendees made its way around and we checked off our names. 20 minutes later, here comes the checklist again. "Wait, we already checked this," we said. "It's ok, just making some last-minute checks," they responded. After checking again, we sat for another 20 minutes and, after I thought I couldn't contemplate the Hardee's sign across the street any longer, here comes the checklist once again. "Why?" we asked. The response has become blurry in my memory, but the true gist of it was something along the lines of, "Well, we are a bloated and inefficient bureaucracy that likes to steal your money and keep you waiting when you may or may not have better things to do on a Saturday." Finally, we set off for the Pyramids, and, upon arrival (which was slowed by what felt like 20 million checkpoints) we were swarmed by children selling scarab necklaces and grown men on intimidating camels, offering us rides. AUC worked its darndest to keep us all together as one giant group, but, knowing better (because herds are definitely easy prey), Tim and I set off on our own and were able to appreciate the Pyramids' majesty with a little bit of grace. It was working well until AUC asked us to get back on the bus to visit the third pyramid (a tiny distance from the first)--we tried to refuse, citing the health benefits of walking, but, true to fashion, the 1/4 mile distance could not be completed without the bus. Nor could the tiny distance to the Sphinx be completed without the aid of the huge, cumbersome tour buses. Eventually, we were all hungry and ready for lunch, except, wait, AUC did not seem to have planned a lunch for us hungry and sun-tired students. Instead, we drove on and visited the Saqqara pyramids (you know, the step ones). While they were lovely and all, sometimes those pesky details, like food and water, get in the way, and we were HUNGRY...finally, around 4:30 or so, we headed over to a super-touristy restaurant with pretty decent food (and replete with cheesy decor, souvenirs, and live fez-wearing musicians), where we instantly gorged ourselves after fasting since before 8 am. Poor Tim had his birthday dinner planned at an Indian restaurant in Mohandeseen, a neighborhood bordering Zamalek, that night, and he was still so stuffed/sick from our late meal that he had relatively little appetite for the delicious dinner. While everything that day was frustrating at the time, it has since become a favorite day for the laughs it gives me and for the perspective on Cairo-ridiculousness. I never did make it back to the Pyramids again...
--Ok, so maybe this is cheating, but I want to do a sort of compliation day that describes the average day at AUC here--not any one day, but the events that could have transpired (and probably did) on a usual day here. Though there were many small annoyances, the days at AUC were overall satisfactory--the kind you can sleep peacefully on (I had some days in Morocco that definitely did not fit that category). Average day, I'd get up around 6, grab the shower, say hello to my friends on the walk to the dorms, and finish (or start) my Arabic homework on the shuttle downtown. I'd oftentimes grab at least a cup of coffee and sometimes a sugar fateer before class, and then after class either head to Arabic tutoring with my friendly tutor Hatim, or go to another class. I'd lunch with my friends Leah and Kathleen (amongst others) pretty steadily at one of our usual spots, and then I'd go to another class or two, or I'd head out on the Metro to Ain Shams, to teach my STAR class with my partner Sam. Until the play started, the evenings were spent, usually, back here at the apartment with my steady dinner diet of pasta or sauteed vegetables, chatting with Katie or Kirsten or both over huge mugs of tea about almost anything and everything under the sun. Aside from the Arabic homework, other tasks were handled in a relatively prompt manner, and by midnight or so I'd be in bed. It was really lovely, actually.
Five generally cool things:
--I am now a PADI certified diver. This certification is accepted worldwide and lasts a lifetime. Wanna go diving sometime? Anytime, anywhere...
--I live (for tonight, at least) in a penthouse apartment on an island in the Nile with my own spacious room. What more can I say?
--I met more people here in Cairo from Washington, DC than I would have met had I spent the whole year in DC. You know how you get in ruts and fast friendships that you never feel the need to break? Why meet new people beyond passing acquaintances when you're still in DC and are surrounded by your old people? Here in Cairo there wasn't much option but to branch out and meet some new people, many of them from American and Georgetown and GW itself--I'm so very glad for it...
--Cairo is the largest city in Africa and the Middle East. It is headquarters to the Arab League and contains the Arab world's best universities (including AUC), best entertainment, Africa Cup-winning Egyptian Pharoahs soccer team, Africa's best hamburger (true story--at a restaurant called "Lucille's"), and the Middle East and Africa's only Metro system. It's like New York, Washington DC, and Hollywood all rolled up into one and dubbed into Egyptian Arabic--how great is that? (I realized earlier today that I have never attended university anywhere but in a capital city--Washington, Rabat, Cairo...sweet).
--McDonald's delievers in Cairo. I've never taken advantage of this service, but it's pretty ridiculous to realize that not only can you be lazy and have an Egg McMuffin for breakfast, but it can even be delivered to your door. McD's is one of many restaurants that delivers here--Cinnabon, KFC, Pizza Hut (ok, so that's normal)...the grocery stores all deliever, too. Wow.
Five incredibly annoying things about Cairo:
--The crowdedness. Really. This was the most annoying thing about Cairo, and often it was the only thing that set me thinking about other annoying Cairo things. Sometimes, you just want to walk down the street and you simply can't seem to get past all the people and flying cars to reach your destination. The Metro was like a sardine can--actually, the strangest thing about the Metro is that the heat down in the stations was literally all body heat from the thousands of Metro users. It was such an uncomfortable feeling, walking below in the stations because the extraordinarily humid air felt like the heat from under a blanket--like you were sharing a huge blanket with hundreds of Cairenes. Delightful.
--The dust. We would sometimes attempt to tackle the dust that had settled around our apartment. I remember one particularly ambitious day in my early and naive Cairo experience, I tried to dust our entire tv shelf system. Literally two days later the dust was as thick as ever, and I couldn't believe my eyes. Particularly with the advent of the Khamseen, or sandstorm season, it was over--the dust definitely won the dirt battle. A broom is no longer an effective tool, there's really no answer. Each time I even open my laptop screen (which is pretty darn often here), I have the habit of brushing off the invariably collected dust with my shirt sleeve--it's second-nature now.
--The mosquitoes. Gosh darn, these are some massive African mosquitoes and they know no fear. I've had a couple flying around me on the couch as I've written this up. They're so big you almost always feel when they land on you. I very satisfactorily smashed one of them a couple of minutes ago mid-bite--ha. The only type of creature I don't mind squishing. They've been attacking lately while I sleep, and I spend part of the shower each morning inspecting the damage they've inflicted this time.
--AUC bureaucracy. I think I've pretty effectively covered this one with my whining in past and current blogs.
--"Finished." This is the word I've come to dread most at restaurants and shops here in Cairo. Inevitably, you will walk into a restaurant at some time in Cairo, thinking, "Mmmm, I would love a turkey sandwich--it sounds just right." You will order and your waiter will say, "Sorry, finished," meaning that they are out of turkey. I went to a restaurant called the "Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf" one day in search of a glass of iced tea, only to be told at 2:30 in the afternoon that the tea was "finished." What?! @&*%#! You are the Coffee Bean & TEA LEAF. How is your tea "finished?" Sometimes you might want a certain item from a store--it will be your only intent in going to the store, and your query about the mysteriously missing product will be met with "sorry, finished." Argh...I attribute a part of this phenomenon to the crowdedness of the city; everyone has simply beat me to these valuable commodities.
Of Ancient Egyptians and Ancient Israelites, 5 Great Egyptian Trips:
--Luxor. We had a long weekend in mid-March to celebrate Western Easter, amongst other things. A huge number of AUC students took this as an opportunity to head to Upper Egypt (which is technically south, but we've covered that before). We took an overnight train from Cairo into Luxor, where we spent two days admiring the works of the Ancient Egyptians, such as Karnak and Luxor temples, as well as the Valley of the Kings and Queen Hatshepsut's temple. The train ride was pretty miserable--I was freezing the whole night, unable to get comfortable, and we had some creepy Egyptian guy watching us pretend to sleep. There was really nothing too miserable about Luxor, though (except maybe the heat). Karnak was absolutely everything you could ask for in an Ancient Egyptian site--obleisks, hieroglyphs, ankh symbols, Horus, Ramses, everything. It could only be topped by our visit to Luxor that night, when it was beautifully, powerfully, and artfully lit by well-placed spotlights and the weather had cooled significantly. Everything from Karnak but made 10,000 more magical by the night. Really an amazing memory.
--Aswan. From Luxor, I headed with several friends to Aswan for a day...or, at least, the idea was to just spend a day. They had all bought train tickets already, and I, being obstinate and wanting initially to spend two days in Aswan, had hedged on the ticket buying. Well, it turned out that I got to spend two days in Aswan after all, since they had no tickets at all back on the night my friends left. In fact, the only tickets they had for even the next day were on a $60 USD overnight sleeper train (a HUGE amount of money to spend for a train in Egypt). I went for it, anyway, because I had to get back for classes at some point. So, I spent the first day out on a perfect felucca ride--really, perfect--with the girls, and we visited a private island garden turned public botanical garden and historical ruins on the neighboring island. I said goodbye to them that night and, as luck would have it, realized that I had other friends coming into Aswan that night from a trip even further south to Abu Simbel. So I called them up and was able to stay in the same hostel as them. The next day was Easter, so, even though it was not celebrated in Coptic Christianity (they celebrate on the Eastern Orthodox date), I was able to walk out to a church to check it out and do a little more Aswan exploration. A little later, I went on my second Aswan felucca ride with my friends, and, as a tribute to the philosophy that lightning only strikes once (or something akin to that), the second felucca experience was not nearly so perfect. Our captain was not so friendly, we were not as good at Arabic collectively, the wind was totally dead for a great deal of the ride (severely curbing our sailing distance), and my pants ripped right in the seat as I boarded (I wore a tank top on my waist the rest of the day...really attractive). Anyway, eventually it was time for my infamously expensive train ride. What exactly would $60 buy me in an Egyptian train? I wondered as I headed toward the station. Well, it turns out that it buys the very lap of luxury. I had a two-person private cabin with a sink, soap, towels, mirrors, hangers, shelves, and seats that folded down into full beds with sheets and blankets and pillows. I also had a nice dinner and breakfast and snacks and even the opportunity to go to the dining car to watch a belly-dancing performance and mingle with my fellow guests. Wow...I slept like a baby right through to Cairo, where I departed not regretting a single penny of the ticket price. No creepy sleep-watchers here...
--Mount Sinai. Several groups of students had already trekked up the Mount of Moses fame when I decided to try and put a group together to go. I started asking around and received interest from several different sources, meaning groups of people who didn't know one another yet. I found a minibus driver through some of my friends who had already gone, and we pushed forward as a motley and unfamiliar crew through the night on a Thursday to Dahab. You see, to visit Mt. Sinai, it is necessary to drive most of the way across the Sinai, and so the trip is often coupled with a trip to Dahab, on the Eastern coast of the Sinai. We decided to make the trip "Weekend Extreme" as dubbed by some friends. We didn't really sleep. The plan was to leave on Thursday night and drive all night through the Sinai (which is barely sleepable due to twisty curvy roads and extremely cold night temperatures), then spend the day in Dahab, and then leave Dahab at night on Friday to drive to Mt. Sinai, where we would begin climbing at 3 in the morning or so to see the sunrise. We figured we could just sleep on the bus on Saturday afternoon (because a lot of us had activities on Sunday). So, we successfully reached Dahab, where we spent the day snorkeling or riding ATVs or laying on the beach. The one thing we almost all definitely did was get incredibly, incredibly sunburned. I mean, a few of us had burn lines that looked like, a friend cracked, "dive flags." I think the majority of us peeled for the next two weeks back in Cairo. The sunburn made climbing Mt. Sinai that night that much more tedious. Most people who have climbed it, when asked, will say something like, "Oh, I'm glad I did it, but I wouldn't do it again." My feelings exactly. It is not that it is a strenuous climb so much (though I'm so out of shape currently that I was definitely huffing and puffing on the stairs), but that the path is littered with camels offered for riding, and these camels have no qualms about pushing you right up against the edge of the path. The path is also just really crowded--so many pilgrims and an vastly increasing number of tourists each year. The top, too, is really, really ridiculously cold--after all the climbing, the reward is to freeze your butt off while you wait impatiently for the sun to rise. We sought shelter in small tents selling snacks and most everyone ended up sleeping on their benches--yes, where Moses allegedly received the 10 Commandments. A lot of people ended up feeling sick after our hectic pace and so much sun exposure, so it was indeed a weekend extreme. The redeeming factor for a lot of it was the climb back down the mountain. We took a different path this time, called the "Steps of Penitence." Sounds more daunting than a camel path, right? Well, actually, it was absolutely beautiful, carved into the ravine cutting between Mt. Sinai and its neighboring mountains. There were thousands of stairs, but they were not littered with camels, and there were actually very few fellow climbers (our little naps at the summit had helped us miss rush hour traffic). As we came down the ravine, we had a beautiful view into St. Catherine's Monastery at the base, supposedly home to Moses' burning bush. By the end, my knee tendons were jello and I was exhausted, but I didn't regret a minute of the weeekend...except maybe the lack of sunscreen.
--The Black and White Desert. I know I've already covered this one, but it was definitely one of my favorite experiences in Egypt.
--Diving in Dahab. Also already covered, but I'm realizing now at the end of the semester that I met a good number of steadfast friends on that trip (i.e., 7 of the 8 of us Spring Break buddies had done scuba classes together). Very worthwhile.
Five rewarding activities this semester:
--My STAR classes in Ain Shams. Unsurprisingly, heading out twice a week to teach refugees English would be a pretty fulfilling experience in most people's books. On Sundays and Tuesdays, I would try to come up with a lesson plan of some sort, usually grammar-based, and prepare it by making copies or writing up activities (like a "visit to the doctor" to practice vocab). It worked out well between my partner and I. Sam was the cool, funny partner, and I was the grammar, stay-on-task partner. I was also the neurotic one who would worry about what we would be teaching, whereas Sam's philosophy was, something like, well, we're native English speakers, going to talk in English to some people who want to learn English--how can we go wrong? In the end, I think a healthy mix of the two made for an enjoyable class, at least from my perspective. I'm still in touch with a lot of the students, since they have my e-mail. It's always fun trying to decode exactly what they mean with their e-mails (we didn't cover writing much in class). I miss them.
--The Arabic language play, "al-Muftah al-Haya," or "The Key of Life." Ok, ok, so if you were talking to me about it at the time, I would have told you I was annoyed by the long practices and the ruthlessly arbitrary directions of the director (who I had not-so-affectionately labeled a "Time Nazi"), and that I'm now a big hypocrite. But, still, when it was all said and done, it was great fun to be involved with this project-the first time they've attempted an international student play in Arabic. We only had a one night show, but, since I was playing a slightly-violent feminist, I got to look pretty ridiculous. The director decided that we should wear holey clothes and ratty t-shirts. We took the look a bit further by teasing our hair to frightening proportions and adding a hefty dose of hairspray and eyeliner. By listening to the scenes of the play night after night for several weeks, I realized that I had indeed improved my Egyptian Arabic comprehension skills, and had learned a few valuable facts about Egyptian culture.
--Renting an apartment. At the end of the semester last fall, I was completely stressed with a huge independent study project and last-minute Morocco drama (you may remember some of this if you've been reading the blog for awhile). All the same, I still wanted to find a Cairo apartment. GW's study abroad housing policy is that if you accept housing from your study abroad program, you must pay GW housing prices for it (a total rip-off, I know...except maybe in London). I really didn't think that was necessary, and I wanted the adventure of an apartment in Cairo. Thanks to my friend Shams, who was studying abroad at the time at AUC, he got me in contact with a girl named April, trying to rent out her space in an apartment in Zamalek for the semester. I accepted after a looooong chain of e-mails and photos and Western Unions, and the rest is history. Not that the dorms aren't nice, BUT...I have...a big room to myself, a full kitchen, 1 1/2 bathrooms (that aren't communal), satellite television, relatively quick wireless (unlike the slothlike dorm internet), a beautiful view, the ability to have coed guests visit, and, should we choose, to keep beer in the fridge--definitely haram in the dorms. It wasn't the easy answer at first, but I am so grateful to Shams and April for this sweet hook-up.
--Arabic. Paradoxically this topic, as a class and as the language itself, had the ability to make me feel so powerful at one moment and then the next, so powerless. My grammar studies in my class were atrocious, and I still can't approach the subject without loathing (even though I somehow pulled off a grade-inflated A- in the class), yet, I had a great time getting together with my tutor to practice speaking and learn a bit about grammar from another perspective. Sometimes when my "boab," or doorman/handy man/security guard/indespensable help would come upstairs to aid with clogged drains, etc., I didn't know how to express exactly what the problem was or how to thank him, or even how to understand everything he told me--so helpless, like a child. Sometimes, men on the street would say things, and, oh, if only I had known the words, what a piece of my mind they would have had...Othertimes, those same people on the street, or particularly in the elevator would be absolutely astonished with even the most simple Arabic word left my blond-girl, foreign mouth. "You speak Arabic?!" said a man in wonder as he asked me for directions earlier tonight. It has been such an aid in bargaining, which you should appreciate when I give you your souvenirs...
--Meeting some genuinely great people--I know this was under 5 generally cool things, but it has also been a very rewarding thing all semester. I didn't meet as many Egyptian people as I hoped I might, but that was honestly due to my own lack of effort. Egyptians are some of the most open and friendly and inviting people in the world--it was only for a reticence to leave my comfort zone that I didn't spend most of the semester practicing my Arabic more and visiting other parts of the city with Egyptian friends.
Five most delicious things to eat:
--Sugar fateer. This butter and fat and sugar bomb will always be my favorite Cairo delicacy.
--Fresh squeezed juice. I finally tried the peach for the first time tonight, and it joins a long list of delicious and refreshing fresh juices found at stands across the city (and the Middle East in general)--orange juice is the most common, but it's followed by a delightful mix of mango, strawberry, pomegranate (in season), melon, and even avocado (in Morocco).
--Costa coffee. I became a pretty bad coffee addict this semester (since the sugary Moroccan mint tea was not readily available, and Egyptian tea just doesn't suffice after Morocco), so I tried the coffee at many of the places around AUC and in Zamalek (and there's a surprisingly huge variety of coffee places). Eventually, I came to realize that my favorite was the plain Americano from Costa--they were generally very friendly, the price wasn't exorbitant (I mean by American standards...Cairo standards, pretty expensive), and it was simply consistently the best tasting coffee.
--Koshari. I ate the last of this carb-staple today for a long time (I don't know of its existence outside of Egypt). It is so filling and the taste has definitely grown on me (particularly when lots of hot sauce is added).
--Chocolate fondant. There is one restaurant in Zamalek called Crave that serves the most delicious chocolate fondant--like a chocolate lava cake with ice cream on the side. They freshly prepare it (it takes at least 20 minutes after the order to receive it), and, wow, I mean, really, really good...
(healthy list, right?)
Five favorite events of Spring Break:
--The day at Petra, particularly in the afternoon, when we wandered onto the road less traveled, still strewn with beautiful sites, but with no other visitors. We climbed all over the place as though we owned it, and trudged back to the entrance with a sense of physical and mental accomplishment (speaking for myself, at least)
--Our visit with Syndi and Aziz, the American-Syrian couple in Aleppo. They opened their home to us, brought home a feast from a local restaurant, and chatted about anything and everything that came to mind. They also had two amazing sons who are currently each working on their 4th language at ages 14 and 11, I believe, and have the presence of mind and maturity of a 40 year old.
--My morning on the Bosphorus, the last day of Spring Break, finishing my coffee and staring down into the straight, which reflected the clouds and my thoughts back to me simultaneously. If all other life plans fail, I'm headed to Istanbul, where I will teach English and pick up Turkish.
--Our day walking around Crac des Chevaliers, being windswept atop the mountain, imaging the lives of the Crusaders and finding nooks and crannies, perhaps intentional or maybe worn by time at this point. We had a picnic on the grass, and even found some small snakes living in the moat (eww, they didn't like the bread we tried to feed them).
--An afternoon at San Simeon, a ruined basilica outside of Aleppo being softly overtaken by an abundance of green, green grass and brilliant red poppies. The countryside here had finally taken a turn for the muted greens we found in Anatolia, and the site itself was just so charming. (I realized I forgot to mention it in the last hurried blog post, so I'll add a couple of pictures of it in the next post or edit the last one.)
Until then, however, all I can do is be thankful for yet another incredible semester of study abroad--shokran, masr.
Wish me safe flights!
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